Monday, January 23, 2006

2003 Whispering Dove Stags Leap District, Napa, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine: 2003 Whispering Dove Stags Leap District Reserve
Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
Price: $29 USD
Notes: A dark purple color with a hint of pepper and dust on the nose, but somewhat cloying. A medium bodied wine lacking any complexity; astringent and over oaked. The tannic finish lasts about 30 seconds. To be avoided Score: 77pts JAT

Before I tell you about this bottle of wine, allow me to give you a little background info. I've tasted an earlier vintage of this wine at a wine store in Dublin, Ca and I wasn't impressed. It smelled sweet, like gummy bears, was flabby and thin, and didn't impress me at all. Then I got the sales pitch, "this wine is limited production and is going to sell out, and we're almost sold out in fact! Buy now for $45 USD and save 30% by the time of its official release, how many bottles would you like, you're limited to three."

None please, although that is brilliant marketing. You appealed to my greed and sense of urgency instead of my taste buds!

So I commented on it on one of Alder's posts at Vinography, which garnered some serious feedback. 'Try it again' was the cry from the masses, so I did last night. This was one of the hardest purchases I've ever had to make. The notes I read on forums were lackluster and sometimes negative on the 2003 Whispering Dove, even the store manager looked at me a little different at the counter. I really didn't feel like wasting $29 (the price for the 03 has fallen sharply and the source for fruit changed from 2002) on a wine I didn't want to taste again. But I did it for the sake of being fair, and to make sure any bias was gone, I made sure I tasted it blind against another 03 Cab. I made sure I didn't know which wine was which, I wanted this to be legitimate. I also didn't want to know what the second bottle was, I just stipulated to my friend that it be an 2003 Cabernet. He could have grabbed a 2003 Hartwell, or a 2003 Beringer Cab, I just didn't want to know.

The tasting:
Wine #1
Exhibits a Ruby - Garnet color, sweet blueberries on the nose with almost a syrup like smell, acidic with the blueberry theme carrying over on the palate, a simple, medium bodied finish. 81pts JAT

Wine #2
A darker wine than number one with a deeper purple, a hint of pepper and dust on the nose, but somewhat cloying. A medium bodied wine lacking any complexity; astringent and over oaked. The tannic finish lasts about 30 seconds. 77pts JAT

I had the first wine pegged as the Whispering dove, thanks to that sweet nose I remember from my first experience with it. 81 points is still a good score, and better than 77. Imagine my surprise when it was revealed that the second wine was actually the dove, Wine #1 was a 2003 Ravenswood Vintners Blend California Cabernet retail ($12 USD?), not a bad wine, although it was a little acidic and overly fruity, possibly from chaptalization?

How disappointing. The grapes for the Dove are from Stags leap, shouldn't I have been able to taste that? The wine was unfortunately one dimensional, devoid of character, and over oaked. I honestly would have jumped all over this wine if it was good, at $30 a bottle for juice from an acclaimed Napa AVA that would have been a great deal. Sadly, it's to good to be true.

This wine is made by someone associated, (was associated?) with the Wine Warehouse, a wholesale distributor out of California, and in hopes of jumping on the bandwagon with a hyped wine / label / AVA, their efforts appear to be to make a quick buck, not deliver a quality, consistent product that consumers can return to year after year. If you buy into it, by all means, pick up a bottle or two, although I'm not one to recommend a bottle that doesn't taste that good.

For me it's simple, if it's a good wine it's worth the money, purchase it and enjoy. If I'm looking to purchase wine as an investment, I make sure that it isn't just hyped by retail sales people, I double check with professional critics, taste it myself (if I can afford it), or even look to other blogs or forums for information on it from other wine lovers.

I wanted to like the 2003 Whispering Dove and be proven wrong. I took the tasting seriously, did it blind and focused on the wine itself, not the label. Those that tasted it with me weren't influenced by my notes, which I kept to myself, and weren't aware of my background with it. We all tasted the wines blind and had the same consensus, this wine was just O.K. This is what I learned, and I personally feel there are much better wines to be had for $30 from around the world.

11 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great post! I really appreciate your candor about this wine and the fact that your tasting notes came from an unbiased standpoint.

1/23/2006 03:31:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm with you all the way. I bought a bottle based on the same hype here in Reno. With the same result as yours waste of $30. Goes to show you can take good grapes add bad wine maker market the hell out of it and still sell it (for a while anyway). Now thier really pushing this stuff because they can't move it. Thanks for the reviews.
Chris K.

1/24/2006 10:08:00 AM  
Blogger Jathan said...

Thanks.

If you need something else to spend your hard earned money on now, I just finished tasting a ton of fantastic wines at the same price point.

Cheers.

1/24/2006 03:55:00 PM  
Blogger Mike said...

jathan

I looked on one of the largest wine forums for posts on Whispering Dove and there was very little that was complimentary. Yes it’s the bulletin board associated with that guy called Parker.

Mike

2/08/2006 06:32:00 PM  
Blogger Jathan said...

Mike,

You're right.

In my haste deleting the comment spam, I deleted a post that pointed to past threads on the dove on other sites. Negative feedback on this wine has been coming from other boards for some time. On the eRobertparker board, I found this review, amoung others, of the 2002:

2002 Whispering Dove Reserve Cabernet
Decanted one hour. Initial whiff of slightly stewed fruits. Noticeable sugary scent dominates any real perfume. Slight heat. Dark purple in the glass. On the palate an initial sense of heaviness. Oak struggling to integrate with fruit. The prickle of green tannins. Then irritating acid. Lots of it. Enough to leave a burning sensation at the roof of the mouth. The fruit is simple, over-ripe and hidden behind the "wine making." Terroir: none. As for the finish - if a dove whispered into the wind - how long would the sound echo through the mountains - not long indeed. Blisteringly short finish. One moment the wine's in your mouth, the next it's gone. Left to breathe another hour and paired with prime NY Steak. No improvement. If anything the wine seemed to thin out further, leaving a distinct impression of shallow sweetness without even varietal character or depth. At best a mediocre bottle of $10 Cab.
To avoid: 79pts.

Not far off from my reviews of this wine, and posted by a regular contributor to the board, not a fly by night poster trying to pump up this stuff.

I’m not alone! I knew it!

2/09/2006 09:25:00 AM  
Anonymous Brian Miller said...

Oops. IO just bought a boittle at the loical Nugget Market based on the recommendation of their manager. he's steered me well in the past (a great, sub $20 Potuguese wine, Sogrape Riserva, I think, that was a fun parety wine), so I'm sad to say I bought this one un-tasted.

6/05/2006 08:47:00 PM  
Blogger Jathan said...

Brian,

I guess if you're feeling brave, open it.
If you aren't, maybe your shop will accept an exchange.

;)

6/06/2006 09:36:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Would you believe I just got an email from a wine shop I attend advertizing a "great buy" on Dove magnums (engraved)for ONLY $124.99/btl and calling it "cult wine" of the year?

9/20/2006 10:22:00 AM  
Blogger Jathan said...

Sounds like a Fantastic deal!!!

...Hurry before they're sold out in 3 years...

:o)

9/28/2006 02:55:00 PM  
Blogger Joel said...

I think it's unfortunate that this is the first review that comes up when you google this wine. I googled it to see how many others enjoyed this wine as much as we did - and I'm dismayed to see this piling-on thing happening.

We had this wine with Christmas dinner 2008, along with a 2002 Turnbull Cab, and to a person we much preferred the Whispering Dove. We had a roasted filet mignon for dinner, and while this wine is a bit jammy for that pairing, it was an amazingly enjoyable quaff. Since the last post on this thread was almost three years ago, perhaps this wine just needed those three more years of cellaring to bring out its best. If future quaffers are reading this and thinking they've wasted their money on this wine - don't believe it. No it's not Screaming Eagle (not that I would know, having never actually tasted the overpriced overhyped stuff), but we are pretty discriminating tasters, including two growers and several very knowledgeable wine lovers.

This is a pretty classic Napa Cab, and not dissimilar from other cabs coming from the Stags Leap region.

Honestly, I think all these negative reviews are classic mob mentality, resulting from rebellion against the absurdities of cult wines. I agree that cult wines are ridiculous. But don't let the tenuous connection between this wine and Screaming Eagle stop you from enjoying Whispering Dove for what it actually is. No, it's not a "Alter Eagle" - but it IS a rich, dense, berry-ish cab with medium tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Try it.

12/26/2008 08:54:00 PM  
Blogger Jathan said...

Hi Joel,

Thanks for your comment.

I, like yourself, am fed up with cult cabs and other overpriced wines. This wine touted itself as a play on that and I felt it came up short. I'm sorry that you feel it's a shame this post comes up first on google, but I'm sure you'll agree that we all have the ability to choose who we listen to for advice in our life, and are free to try things for ourselves. Since you enjoyed this wine you probably wouldn't use my palate as a gauge in the future but that's O.K. The goal of Winexpression has always been to steer my friends towards wines I recommend, and this is one I couldn't stamp with my approval. But your notes are completely different from what I and others experienced, which I find strange. Could time, as you say, have completely altered the profile of this wine? Or were there inconsistencies at the time of bottling?

Where did these grapes come from? Who was the grower, the winemaker, and what practices did they use? All of these questions are still left to be answered. But, for now, I will continue to drink wines I have found that are consistently good.

12/28/2008 01:46:00 PM  

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